Wide open spaces

On the drive to Kalbarri, we started to see a completely different landscape, with the natural vegetation we had previously been driving through being replaced by the rolling hills of agricultural land. It reminded us of the pituresque south coast of NSW. One field that we passed was filled with flowers, creating a yellow carpet as far as we could see. The smell was as impressive as the sight, with the sweet, honey like aroma filling the air. Having had a few odd shaped sites over the last few weeks that didn’t really work with our camper trailer, we decided not to book anywhere in Kalbarri, preferring to just turn up and hope there would be something available. It allowed us to check out the site before locking something in. We headed to the caravan park that sounded best and they fortunately had a couple of sites left. We checked one out which was perfect so we locked it in and got to setting up. The kids approved of the place as there was a massive jumping pillow as well as other playground equipment and they raced straight over to have a play. Once set up, we all wandered down to the visitors centre to get some tips on things to do around Kalbarri. After a play by the foreshore we went back to camp where I could watch the kids at the camp playground while cooking hamburgers on a nearby BBQ, happy in the fact the kids would drop like flies tonight after an afternoon of activity. After dinner there was time for one last play before showers and bed.

We awoke the next morning to pretty uninspiring weather. Having had nothing but sunshine and warmth for about 4 months straight, we were now entering a new phase of the trip where the weather was less predictable. The sky was covered in clouds, with the trees swaying in the strong breeze, but for now at least the forecast rain had not appeared. We eventually clambered out of bed and headed down to the main street where Kat and Em went to the local op Shop on the hunt for bargains while Oli and I went to catch some Pokémon. We all then reconvened at the local bakery and each got a treat to keep us going until lunch. Oli reckoned that this was the best doughnut he had ever had. After lunch we got in the car and drove down the coast a bit to explore the many cliff top walks and lookouts that this part of the Kalbarri National Park had to offer. First stop was a beautifully designed boardwalk that linked Natural Bridge (as you might have guessed, this was a natural rock formation that created a bridge over the water) with Island Rock (another point to you if you guessed that this was a rock that formed an island just off the cliffs) – we never tire of the simple yet effective names given to so many places and sights in our wonderful country. It was drizzling a bit when we arrived so we dug out our raincoats which had not been used since Mildura, more than four and a half months earlier, and headed along the paths to explore the coast. Although the sun was not out, the shallow waters still revealed their signature turquoise colours, and Kat and I have always enjoyed seeing the coast in stormy conditions so this weather just added to its rugged nature. As seemed to be the way everywhere we stopped along the coast, we saw a pod of dolphins playing in the waters below one of the lookouts. The amount of marine wildlife along this WA coast was amazing, and definitely something that we need to make sure we protect. After walking along the boardwalk, we headed back to the car and then stopped at a couple of other lookouts along the way back towards town including a couple of hidden beaches. That afternoon, the kids did a bit more work on the movies they were making of the trip as the rain continued to fall.

After a night of howling winds, we were pleasantly surprised to wake up to a sunny day the next morning. We got the kids to update their journals first thing before heading out for another drive. This time we drove inland to another part of Kalbarri National Park where there were a number of gorges and other lookouts. First stop was Nature’s Window, where the rocks had been weathered to create a large hole, creating a window which perfectly framed the winding river that snaked its way along the gorge below. The rocks around here created wonderful shapes due to their layered nature, with the dark and light brown colours forming stunning patterns on the rock face. The kids had a ball clambering over the rocks while we enjoyed the breathtaking views. We then drove to Z-Bend lookout, which perched us high above another gorge, again highlighting the powerful eroding forces of the water below, which had carved out this deep and wide path through the earth over millions of years. Along the walks we also started to see more and more wildflowers, another things that WA is famous for at this time of year. Although we had heard that there was not much rainfall in the prior months, meaning that it would not be a great wildflower season this year, we were still impressed by what we had seen so far. Back at camp that afternoon they kids spent the whole time in the playground. They had met a bunch of other kids at the caravan park and they all spent the afternoon coming up with games to play on the jumping pillow together. It was so nice to see how comfortably our kids joined in with the others, as earlier in the trip they had been quite shy and reserved. It was clear that they were now really craving the fun of playgrounds and other kids, so we realised that staying at caravan parks with playgrounds was a better option at this stage than finding the more isolated camp sites that we may have enjoyed along the coast.

Although we had planned to head off the next morning, as the kids were having so much fun at this place and had made lots of friends, we decided to stay and just enjoy a day around camp. We went for a walk in the morning to watch the local pelicans being fed. Apparently the local fishermen had started giving the pelicans their offcuts and surplus fish back in the 50’s and since then they had been coming back to be fed every day, with volunteers keeping the tradition going these days. After another play in the playground by the beach and another round of bakery treats we headed back to camp and the kids played while we caught up on a few chores. In the afternoon, with the kids amused, I even snuck in a rare afternoon nap.

The next morning the sun was shining so on the way out of Kalbarri we went back to the cliff top lookouts, keen to see how they looked in the sun. With clear skies we could see down through the water to the rocks below, which made gorgeous patterns with the swirling sand below. It was well worth the quick detour on the way out, and allowed us to enjoy the takeaway coffees we had picked up on the way out of town in a stunning setting. After a relaxed start, we hopped back in the car and headed to Jurien Bay, another seaside town which was to be our final stop before reaching Perth.

Wildflowers on the way to Kalbarri

Fun in Kalbarri

The Kalbarri Coast

The inland gorges